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Posted by: Matthew
As we become more focused on understanding health and weight related issues, the media’s role in providing information on these subjects has increased to a large degree. Nearly every health or fitness driven magazine and website publishes regular columns devoted to a variety of topics, ranging from diet, to medication, exercise and nutrition. The speed at which these vehicles produce information, along with a journalist’s commitment, or lack thereof, to fact finding, research and objectivity, often create situations where the truth is stretched or simply ignored entirely. A recent article on a widely read site, www.health.com, provided a striking example of just how loose the editorial standards can be. The article, written by Julie Upton, a registered dietitian and prolific health writer, was titled six diet trends you should never try. From my own experience with the often misleading information found on these sites, I rarely follow them. However, due to Ms. Upton’s inclusion of the raw food diet in the list of those to avoid, I felt compelled read her column. It was an interesting read, if only for a further education as to how far a journalist can manipulate or misstate facts for the purposes of completing an article and likely a deadline.
Ms. Upton’s resume is extensive and she certainly possesses the skills and resources to properly research her stories and to deliver a balanced, factual and objective viewpoint. It would be hard to question that alone but based on this particular article, the commitment to do so may be lacking, and editorial oversight certainly is. Interesting, the most notable quote on Ms. Upton’s website is as follows:
“My favorite part of being a writer is coming up with a story idea that no one else thought of or unearthing some lesser-known research that’s never been reported on. The challenge in nutrition writing is to take credible, scientific information that’s not new, but making it newsworthy.”
Being one who supports creativity in all its forms, I can hardly argue with that lofty goal however, when it results in manipulation of facts to support a story that is ill conceived to begin with, I have a hard time agreeing with that approach.
In all fairness, and in the spirit of “journalistic integrity”, I did attempt to contact both Ms. Upton and her publisher, in the hopes that one or both would respond to a few questions and offer rebuttals to my assessment of the article. Neither party responded, so I have let the facts of the article speak for itself.
Raw Food Diet
Eating raw is based on trying to get the majority of your calories from unprocessed and uncooked foods. Rawists believe that eating foods above 116° – 118° F will destroy enzymes that provide many health benefits. While most dietitians would agree that eating lots of minimally processed fruits, vegetables, and grains is best, we also understand that processing actually boosts the bioavailability of several key nutrients, primarily the phytonutrients, and inactivates some of the unhealthy compounds.
The raw food diet is rich in all plant-based foods including fruits and vegetables; nuts and seeds; and sprouted seeds, grains, and beans. Don’t get me wrong; these ingredients are great and you can make plenty of meals (here are five delicious ones) using these guidelines. But following this type of diet to a T requires a lot of complicated food preparation creating pine nut and yeast “cheese,” for example that makes it impractical for most working women.
I have had plenty of experience with raw foods because I live in Marin County, Calif., where Roxanne Klein, the coauthor of Raw, started Roxanne’s Fine Cuisine, a line of pricey prepared raw food creations available at our Whole Foods and other high-end supermarkets. I’ve tried several of the items but have found them to be extremely expensive and not very tasty certainly nothing I could follow for more than a day or two at most.
As a “flexitarian” and part-time vegan, I know that eating lower on the food chain can help promote weight loss, but I also know that caloric content is not related to the heated treatment of food. Skip the raw food diet, and eat more healthful whole foods cooked or raw to help whittle your waist, not your wallet.
The article prompted a rally from a number of raw food fans, including me. There is no question that most of her points could be valid under certain circumstances, but in general, they are far from factual.
Raw food, like any food, can be complicated to prepare. It can also be extraordinarily simple in fact, the easiest of any foods. Ms. Upton seems to confuse restaurant and cookbook quality, gourmet raw food, with what the general population would prepare at home on a daily basis. It was a point that was very poorly made the same could be said of any style of food, save packaged and processed foods, which, incidentally, she has also endorsed in various articles she has written in the past.
Most troubling, from a point of integrity, is what she has chosen to base as her “experience” with raw food. Said experience was based on the fact that she lives in an area where one brand of raw food is sold in its packaged form at high end supermarkets. If she was truly familiar, she would realize that packaged foods are the least prominent aspect of what makes raw food truly remarkable. In my letter, I pointed out that basing her opinion of raw food on a packaged product would be like judging a master chef based on a line of canned soups borrowing his or her name, and sold at a local deli. The statement is equal to suggesting that French Cuisine is not fresh, based on the purchase of a frozen meal.
Ms. Upton, a self described part-time vegan (whatever that may be), seems to have her priorities in line with her quoted mission whether those priorities are of benefit to her readers or not is another story.
Posted by: Matthew
Ed Flanders at 62 Years Old
National and Drug Tested OCB, 2008
Although health and fitness are sometimes presented as dual concepts, they do, in fact, always go hand in hand. There is no true health without fitness and no true fitness without health. Some people don’t seem to understand this, instead focusing only on exercise, whereas others live with an emphasis on diet and nutrition, but do not include regular exercise into their lifestyle. I recall, when just beginning my journey into the raw food world, reading a raw cookbook author’s suggestion that simply eating the unprocessed plant based diet was enough to stay in shape (ripped, was actually the term he used), even by lying on the couch. It goes without saying that some athletes, simply by possessing an extraordinary metabolism, may eat all the junk food they like and still perform and look like champions. Likewise, there are a number of healthy eaters whose rigid dietary habits render appearances that may seem athletic. Eventually, however, an unbalanced approach to living well will show its effects, whether they be physical, mental or otherwise. We are fortunate to have visionaries like Ed Flanders, who are not only talents in their own field, but are able to bring the various elements of healthy living together in a way that balance is achieved.
Bodybuilding was not a tremendously popular sport in Maine when I was growing up, and certainly not in the small town where I lived. The only memories I have of it being present during early childhood was that advertisement where the bully kicked sand in the skinny guy’s face at the beach. The muscular bully got the girl, of course, at least until skinny started hitting the gym.
Ed was a star track and field athlete at Belfast Area High School, the moderately larger town next to the one where I grew up. He held high school records in both the half mile and full mile for 20 years, and discovered bodybuilding as a means to enhance his athletic performance. When I met him in the early 1980′s, he was a science teacher in Belfast, and operated a small gym in his garage that he’d opened a few years earlier, in 1975. Although not large in scale, it was very well equipped and functional – albeit a bit cold during the winters, you’d need gloves or your hands would be sticking to the steel bars on some of those icy mornings. The small, but dedicated, group of members were a serious and determined group whose passion for fitness caught on and the membership expanded.
In 1983, Ed moved his gym (and renamed it Bay Area Fitness from its unofficial former name “Ed’s Gym”). He now has one of the most, if not the most, well equipped gym in the state. The gym houses a unique combination of free weights, nautilus, Med X and Superslow machines, as well as numerous others. Some are from the old days and are both interesting and effective.
Since going on to bodybuilding and weight training, Ed has garnered numerous awards, including the Maine State Light-Heavy Weight Olympic Lifting Champion in 1971, Mr. Maine in 1975 and numerous placements in New England, Nationals and Masters events over the years. He currently holds 4 masters records in the world for strict curls. He is and has always been 100% natural and still competes regularly. As is evidenced by his photos, he is extraordinarily fit nearly 35 years after first winning Mr. Maine, now at age 62.
Where Ed’s philosophy truly stands out is in his sustainable approach to training. He has been following the Pritikin Diet for 25 years, and it has a lot to do with his ability to remain competitive and to retain lean muscle mass. Pritikin is known for its very low fat approach, its inclusion of many servings of grains and vegetables, and for its avoidance of limiting consumption like so many other diets. Following his example, I first experimented with Pritikin in high school and again in college and learned a great deal about diet and health in the process. When other athletes either leave their diets behind after many years in sports, or change them, Ed has stayed the course and it has kept him healthy and competitive, even as he addressed different competitive targets.
The image of bodybuilding is sometimes seen as one where heavy weights are thrown around and a lot of noises are made. In fact, what is most interesting about Ed’s approach is his embrace of the Superslow method of training, which focuses on very controlled, deliberate, resistance driven repetitions which provide a constant force of muscle tension and ultimately prevents most injuries. The superslow machines, which I demonstrate below, are fluid, comfortable and actually, very pleasant to work with. But don’t make the mistake of confusing superslow with super-easy- the philosophy behind it mandates training until absolute failure and that can be a painful proposition.
I have always believed that intense weight training is directly related to the maintenance of cardiovascular and bone and muscle health. As much as I love yoga and even outdoor running, I could not imagine a life without weight training. For athletic and health longevity, top form and a truly effective training result, Ed has shown how his scientific and instinctual approach pays off.
Bay Area Fitness
192 Searsport Avenue
Belfast, Maine 04915
207-338-3567
Posted by: Matthew
Every so often, an exciting project appears and has the opportunity to bring a new dimension to its genre. Dara Prentice and Mandy Canistelle formed a vision for 105degrees that is the first of its kind, not only in Oklahoma City, but in the world. Born out of their passion for raw and living cuisine, the idea was to develop a forward thinking raw cafŽ, living foods culinary academy and retail boutique, all housed in one location. I am grateful to be a member of their team and to be involved in a project of such scale and creativity. There are many who have made this incredible project possible, including the talented architect, David Kraszewski. Mandy is a chef and living foods teacher, with a large following in Oklahoma City. I recently attended one of her classes and was extremely impressed with her meticulous attention to detail and teaching skills. Dara is an attorney with extensive experience in a number of areas, now business owner, and is bringing her impeccible skills to the management of a multitude of large details that are required to bring such a venue to life.
105degrees has 3 major components, all working in sync with one another. The Cafe at 105degrees will be designed around a completely modern open kitchen. Designed with sustainability in mind, it will have a 15 seat bar, 65 seat dining room and approximately 30 seats on its patio. The academy, one of our most distinguishing aspects, will offer two professional courses, Fundamentals of Raw Cuisine and Advanced Raw Cuisine, running for 1 and 3 months, respectively. The academy will also offer numerous courses for the community and visitors. The Shop at 105degrees will be both an e-commerce business as well as a store within our “glass box”, which will be located between the cafe and academy. The shop will feature our unique brand of retail items, packaged foods, supplies for the home and many more unique sustainable and organic products.
105degrees will address raw food preparation from a classical perspective, building on a number of bases, sauces and techniques that run parallel to French culinary methods. Our menu will be modern, globally influenced and cutting edge, and will change in its entirety on a seasonal basis. As I work on the menu with Mandy now, our goal is to develop raw cuisine at a new level, with an emphasis on lightening dishes without compromising full flavor and richness.
All of the components of 105degrees will launch in September, just a month after we complete construction and training. Our first “Fundamentals” class will be taught in the fall, and “Advanced”, open to all graduates of Fundamentals, will begin in January 2010.
105degrees will be located in a new development, Classen Curve, which is owned by Chesapeake Energy. I look forward to sharing many more details of 105degrees in the very near future.
www.105degrees.com
Posted by: Matthew
While most writers may find it more practical to write a book from the beginning, Everyday Raw Desserts began from chocolate. There are a number of chapters I’m excited to write about (and taste), but none as much as Cacao.
I’m fortunate to be working on this book with Meredith Baird, who is not only talented but also extremely clever with the raw beans and their multiple uses. Meredith recently moved to New York, from Napa Valley, where she worked in the wine industry (along with chocolate, another living essential!). As with all food in its natural state, the success of raw chocolate is largely based on the integrity of its ingredients. In our case, Meredith was able to source something extremely special, which we’ll write more about later, and also develop a new method for preparing the chocolate at a very low temperature.
This chocolate was rich and buttery, not overly sweet but lacking a harsh bitterness that often accompanies raw cacao. It also remains very firm, regardless of heat or humidity (within reason, of course).
Another valid reason for beginning a book with raw cacao: If it’s good enough, you won’t have trouble staying awake to write the next 9 chapters.
Posted by: Matthew
Belgium is well known for its food, although not for its Belgium is well known for its food, although not for its ‘health’ food. We typically associate the national cuisine with waffles, chocolate, mussels, beer and fries. Most of my own experiences with these foods have been in New York, and all were abundant, satisfying and unpretentious. Needless to say, I was somewhat surprised when I began reading about a new restaurant concept from Belgium that opened on the Upper East Side called Rouge Tomate, whose premise is nutritional value and respect for the environment.
As far as restaurants go, I’m a creature of habit but also very curious, so my dining choices usually reflect a balance between experiment and comfort. January, being a cold and heavy month, is a time I really appreciate my favorite restaurants, where I know staff and don’t need to read a menu. Elio’s, on the far Upper East Side, was warm, cozy and straightforward as always, with a menu that has no apparent changes since I first dined there 21 years ago. It’s also just as full, with its own brand of electricity and straightforward Northern Italian menu. Milo’s, in West Midtown, is perhaps known for having some of the freshest fish in New York, and I go there specifically for the best version of a Greek Salad better than any I’ve tried in Greece. Along with these two, Esca, which is run by David Pasternak, was impeccable on two recent occasions, and serves as tremendous example of how a restaurant should be run for longevity. I can’t say that I’ve ever been in a restaurant that felt more comfortable with itself than Esca. Others don’t age as gracefully as these, which are why I take them out of my rotation and head off in search of new classics.
Rouge Tomate’s philosophy would be easy to make fun of – it seems a bit too self aware and so meticulously thought out that it leads you to wonder if there would be any room left for spontaneity and magic in the food, or if the laboratory-like analysis would drain the product of its soul. There is no question that the concept, with its original location in Brussels, has been analyzed and sculpted into what we now have in New York. The guiding charter of Rouge Tomate is based on the principles of S.P.E, a series of guidelines developed by chefs and nutritionists, which reflect a “genuine respect for ingredients and balanced dishes”. The 3 main elements of S.P.E. are the sourcing of local and seasonal high quality ingredients, preparation that preserves the integrity of ingredients and nutritional value of foods, and enhancement, in which nutritional value is increased with unique ingredient combinations.
All of New York’s food critics have now weighed in on Rouge Tomate, with mixed results. The general consensus among them seems to be that the restaurant is vast, expensively done, beautiful, and pristine. The food has garnered very good reviews for its quality and execution, but not ultimately for the end result. It is sometimes characterized as precious, fussy and, occasionally, as somewhat bland. My own skepticism about the New York City critics, many whom tend to favor salty, porky, meat-centric preparations and who often seem so out of touch with their own bodies that they probably wouldn’t like what I would anyway, led me to Rouge Tomate with no preconceived expectations. And yet, they were spot on. Most of what I tried and saw at this new restaurant was vibrant, leading me to trust the kitchen’s standards, never leaving a doubt about their commitment to freshness and quality. However, could not help but imagine a board room full of analysts reviewing each and every dish on the menu. It somehow feels like many interior designs do, when the architect spends most of his or her time reviwing plans from a computer screen as opposed to being in the space, feeling its energy and light. Rather than repeat what the critics have written, and what I surprisingly agree with, I’m more interested in the S.P.E. and how it has impacted this concept.
The room is pristine, warm and much akin to what a 20,000 or so square food jewel box might look like. In the space previously occupied by the retail fashion shop and restaurant of Nicole Fahri, the décor is at once open and warm, yet slightly uncomfortable for an undefined reason. Perhaps it is the scale of the place. The night previous, at Elio’s, 100 or so seats are jammed into a room 3 times as loud and 8 times as dense, with less than a couple inches between guest’s chairs and conversations melting their way into neighbors tables. This is grand dining, on a scale like many of Sir Terrance Conran’s restaurants in London, but without the heightened sense of tension. The upper level is a large café and bar, all decorated in “rouge” and earth tones, the red being much more subtle and tasteful than one might expect. Downstairs is even more luxurious, but not in a 4 star dining way. restaurant is a bit hard to define. It is not trendy, and not necessarily fine dining. Yet, its not a bistro, bar, brasserie or trattoria. Perhaps it feels corporate.
Sourcing of quality local and seasonal ingredients is a favorite pastime of New York chefs these days, myself included. In reality, its not an easy feat, despite how many great products and suppliers there are in the city. We are in the Northeast, which doesn’t produce everything one might wish for in the winter, and in the busiest city in the country, so there are several factors making this a challenge. It is competitive, costly and challenging to source well, but it does appear that Rouge Tomate is making a very respectable effort. Bread is one thing New York does well – a bit more “S” could be allocated toward the bread purchasing or making effort. It was rather dry, rather white and devoid of a meaningful character. Small, pickled vegetables garnishing a hummus appetizer show off a bit of the boutique shopping element, although the slightly dry hummus, packed into a tiny ramekin, oppresses the general character of the dish. A chickpea panisse, cut into a baton like a thick, creamy fry, was a perfectly executed garnish.
It is not entirely clear what it is about the preparation at Rouge Tomate that preserves integrity more than it might at, say, Esca or any other restaurant that greatly respects the products it handles. Dishes to appear to be carefully cooked, with minimum impact and although not raw, they come to the table appearing somewhat like what they are – in color least. Many are molded, wrapped, chopped, diced and pureed into unrecognizable geometrical positions, so that your imagination does consider that there is a pretty decent amount of effort going into this food. If integrity is based on not losing the taste of an ingredient, and keeping its natural pigment, then I’d say Rouge Tomate does an admirable job. However, if the press release gives you visions of eating from a garden, you’ve come to the wrong place.
Enhancement is an interesting choice of words to describe food combining in a natural way, but I do see what the goal of Rouge Tomate’s menu is. They serve an excellent balance of protein, grains and plant based foods on many dishes. That said, the menu heavily relies on seafood and animal based ingredients, which they they build around. For a restaurant that prides itself on this factor, I was a bit surprised that of only a couple main course dishes that are vegetarian, all are reliant on heavier starchy productions and none are vegan. I also found it odd that anyone studying food combining would recommend the use of chicken stock as a base for a carefully cooked black bass.
There are a number of esoteric culinary styles that are not only fascinating, but delicious. Often, however, overly thought out foods can come across less sensual than cerebral and rather than being enhanced by the process, they are marginalized. I believe there is a balance of uber creativity and good down to earth cooking – one of my favorite examples was at the former restaurant of Lydia Shire in Boston, Biba. The dishes on the menu were so wildly described, it seems that it would be impossible for them to be given a title until they were tested, eaten and savored. I don’t know if this is true, but I always imagined she and her chefs preparing these delicious meals and taking poetic justice in describing them. It worked brilliantly. Other times, form trumps function. Its something I always try to balance in working with raw food, which requires a tremendous amount of thought, so I realize how challenging it can be.
For that reason, I believe that Rouge Tomate, if New York allows it room and time to grow, will blossom into its own over time, and perhaps in the very near future. It still has that room to overcome, but if the quality of execution reaches the quality of intention, they will have a good future.
