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Posted by: Matthew

Every Culture has their “drink” – their signature beverage. From wine in France , to Tequila in Mexico or Vodka in Russia- wine and spirits often offer unique insight to a culture or a region’s identity. For most people Pisco falls some where in between.

You’ve probably heard of Pisco, but may or may not know where it comes from or what it is made of. Pisco is at the heart of a cultural battle of sorts. Two countries lay claim to this clear grape-based liquor, and the cocktail that it is most renown for, the Pisco Sour. These two countries are Peru and Chile. Their product is by no means identical. Chilean Pisco is slightly sweeter and of lower proof, where as Peruvian Pisco has more of a bite. This, in my opinion. makes for a better Pisco Sour.

You can find plenty of information on the two and fro as to who can actually lay claim to Pisco and the Pisco sour. But I won’t give you a research paper on the history behind this debate, because I may cause another one. I will only speak from my own experience and how, on a recent trip to Peru, I saw first-hand that Peruvians take pride in their Pisco. At first, I thought that the Pisco Sour might be a cliché, a tourist gimmick, and was a little leery of ordering it on my first lunch- but the more I looked around, the more I saw – Peruvians drink Pisco Sours before lunch, with lunch, after lunch, and with dinner. Excellent! Now, I could too- because clearly, I was not a tourist. So I did.

The Pisco Sour is a simply delicious cocktail. Not too fussy, complicated, or confusing- and it won’t knock you out before dinner. Usually served in small old-fashioned glass, it is the perfect aperitif to commence a meal. Made well, they are slightly sour, slightly sweet, and have just enough bite to get your taste buds in gear for a delicate meal of ceviche, tiraditos, and causas. The Pisco is traditionally made with a type of small Peruvian lemon that has a similar flavor to a key lime. This is also the same acid that has been historically used in making ceviche, which is why the flavors compliment each other so well. The balance of the slightly salty fish, with the sweet tang of the cocktail, and the slight creaminess that comes from the egg white to compliment the texture of the fish – it truly is pairing perfection.

And now…. I’m thirsty- so let’s make one.

• 1 egg white
• 2 ½ ounces Pisco (Peruvian)
• ¾ oz fresh lemon juice or key lime juice
• ½ oz simple syrup
• Angostura Bitters

In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine egg white, Pisco, simple syrup, and lemon juice. Cover, and shake vigorously and strain into six ounce cocktail glass. Top with a splash of bitters.

Posted by: Matthew

When you are the type of person who attempts to be an educated consumer, the world of wine poses a challenging hurdle. The amount of history and information surrounding wine is extremely complex, with hundreds and thousands of different producers and grape varietals to choose from- growing regions, climates, the list goes on.  I am not going to attempt to sort through this information in such a short article. What I am going to help you understand is a bit more easily defined- although still wrought with politics and controversy. I will try to keep it as simple as possible.

What do all the labels mean and how do you know?

First of all wine is raw. Wine is made from pressing the juice out of grapes and allowing that juice to ferment with strains of yeast. The yeast eats the sugar and converts it to alcohol and CO2 yes, carbon dioxide. In most cases the carbon dioxide is released, but in the case of sparkling wine, it is trapped in the bottle and that is where the bubbles come from- Voila! Champagne, but that is a different story. If all wine is only fermented grape juice, what is vegetarian/vegan wine?  Aren’t all wines by definition vegan or vegetarian? The answer is no, they are not. To remove the yeasts and particles from wines they are filtered. Most often in the filtration process a small amount of animal products are used from a variety of sources; gelatin, isinglass (fish bones), casein and egg whites are all examples of products that are used. Although it is a very small amount, if you are strictly vegan, you may want to pay attention to this fact.  However, even if a wine is not labeled vegan or vegetarian- if a wine is labeled unfiltered, you have a good chance that it is animal free.  Like with most agricultural products, there are basically three levels certifying the “green” factor of a wine.

Sustainable

As to whether a wine is sustainable might require you to do a little research to ascertain. Because of the rigorous process to become certified organic, many small-scale wineries do not have the money and/or resources to obtain this classification. Many small wineries farm in a way that is environmentally friendly and their owners are proud and happy to share this information with you. For this reason it makes sense to spend a few extra dollars to support a smaller venture that might not have corporate financial backing, but embraces an eco friendly ethic.

Organic

Just like with food, organic wine is produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and steer away from using most conventional pesticides; petroleum-based fertilizers or harmful fertilizers; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation. In order for a product to be labeled “organic,” a Government-approved certifier must inspect the vineyard to make sure the farmer is following all the rules necessary to meet USDA organic standards. This process is expensive and time consuming.

Biodynamic

Biodynamic farming is perhaps the most rigorous and intense method of farming. As applied to wine, biodynamic farming principles treat the vineyard as a whole organism rather than just concern for one singular crop. Biodynamic regards the soil as the life of the vineyard (which it is) and treats it with detailed focus and attention; crop rotation, green manure, cover crops, wind protection etc. Thus biodynamic vineyards attain the most environmentally sound forms of production, and yield a very high quality crop. Traditionally more popular in France and Germany, biodynamic farming has started to gain recognition and popularity in the US.

Hopefully this helps you see that all wine is not created equally. When you are meticulously trying to put the cleanest foods in your body, you should also do so when choosing a wine. Grapes are an agricultural product that can be laden with pesticides, and farmed in a manner that is damaging to the environment. Fortunately many wineries are getting on board with the idea that how they manage their vineyard can actually be a contribution to our ecosystem instead of a detriment. Which is why supporting smaller producers is a great idea- it helps contribute to the diversification of wines instead of supporting mass produced equals. (Mondovino great film on this subject). The differences and the quirks in wines are what make them intriguing, appealing and exciting – a good thing. A wine should represent the climate, vineyard, and year it is grown in- making each bottle unique. When you support environmentally friendly wine production, you come closer to supporting quality and diversity.

Wine can be an important part of enjoying life and food. Wine can calm your spirit and bring you in the moment to sit, relax and savor a meal with friends and family- raw, vegan, vegetarian or otherwise. Choosing wine should be as pleasurable as enjoying it, not an intimidating decision that makes you question yourself or your choices.

Posted by: Matthew

On a recent weekend in Boston, I had the opportunity to visit O-Ya, the highly rated, 37 seat restaurant owned by Tim and Nancy Cushman.  I was immediately drawn to its subtlety, quietly tucked into an old brick building on a quiet side street.  Everything from their website to the elegant, but modest decor, is in line with what I had anticipated.  The vegan tasting menu was beyond anything I could have imagined, and fully explained why O-YA is consistently praised by diners and the media.  It was an excellent experience that I can’t wait to repeat.

Visit Website

Posted by: Matthew

Meredith invented the definitive chocolate cake for our upcoming book, Everyday Raw Desserts.  She and her friend Simone prepared it this weekend for the birthday dinner of my partner, Dara Prentice, which was held on the patio of 105degrees.

Triple Layer Cacao Cake

Wet Ingredients

• 3 C Date Paste
• ½ C Almond Milk
• ½ C Maple Syrup or Agave
• 5 tbsp Vanilla
• ½ C Coconut Oil, melted

Dry Ingredients

• 4 C Almond flour
• 4 C Hazelnut flour
• 1 C Coconut Powder
• 1 C Cacao Powder
• 1 tsp Salt
• *¼ C Irish Moss Paste can be used with wet ingredients or ¼ C flax meal with the dry.
  This is optional and creates a fluffier mixture.

Wet Ingredients

In a vita mix thoroughly blend all the wet ingredients except for the coconut oil until smooth. Then add the coconut oil and continue to blend until well combined.

To Make Cake Batter

In a mixer or food processor mix the dry ingredients until thoroughly combined. Slowly add the wet ingredients. It is better to use a standing mixture as this will keep the mixture lighter and more fluffy, but if you do not have a standing mixer it can be done in the food processor if you lightly pulse the wet ingredients in. You do not want a dense heavily blended mixture.

Fudge Frosting

• 2 C soaked Cashews
• 2 C Almond Milk
• ½ Maple Syrup
• 4 tbsp Vanilla Extract
• 1 C Cacao Powder
• ¼ tsp Salt
• ¾ C Coconut Butter, melted
• Cacao Shell*

Frosting

In a vita mix thoroughly blend all the wet ingredients except for the coconut oil until smooth. Then add the coconut oil and continue to blend until well combined and creamy. Place in the refrigerator for 30 min to an hour until slightly firm, but still able to be easily spread.

Assembly
Divide cake batter into thirds. Press one layer of batter in a 9 inch spring form pan and alternate with frosting. Refrigerate just before serving and glaze with Cacao shell.

Makes one 9 inch cake

Posted by: Matthew

A summer meal at Primo in Rockland, Maine highlighted everything about the growing Maine food scene that I love - a passion for sustainable, local ingredients, clean but imaginative cooking and talented operators who understand their market.  Honey from their own hives, Price’s excellent bread and pastries, and Melissa’s talent with some of the best products in the state – greens, herbs and flowers all grown on property add up to an incredible experience.  The most recent night I was there, capenters were building an outdoor chicken coop under spotlight for the 100 laying eggs that were due to arrive the next morning.  In the same way that many travel to the Costa Brava in Catalonia to experience the ethereal cuisine of Ferran Adria, others go out of their way to find Primo during their travels in the Northeast.

www.primorestaurant.com